Cosima's Diaries

Diary Entry of May 1, 1877

Overview

The journey from Brussels to London feels vivid and almost theatrical, especially after the rough sea crossing leaves R. miserable while the writer remains surprisingly exhilarated. London impresses them deeply, both for its grandeur and its strange, dreamlike atmosphere, and the day ends with social visits and concern about the state of their affairs.

Content

Tuesday, May 1:

In Brussels in the early morning, in Ostend at 10 o’clock, after receiving a nice, pleasant impression of the scenery. In Dover at 1 o’clock, after a very disagreeable crossing for R.: he is utterly seasick, so that I feel almost ashamed at feeling nothing of this wretched condition, but rather taking a kind of pleasure in this unusual journey. Dover makes a powerful impression on us, and the first drive through London not only a powerful, but also a pleasing impression. Almost the entire orchestra is gathered on the platform at Charing Cross, with Wilhelmj, Dannreuther, Seidl, Fischer, etc.

We are living very pleasantly and comfortably with the Dannreuthers; the night passes very quietly. Visit to the Albert Hall, which we like very much, in spite of its enormous dimensions. Our singers have already arrived. Then I drive with R. in a hansom cab; the fog gives everything a ghostly appearance and it is precisely here, in this center of the utmost activity, that I feel most closely aware of the ideality of things and the dreamlike quality of life. The huge buildings cannot be ignored; they are there and then vanish. The low houses and large gardens give a feeling of freedom and comfort. If I had to choose a large city, it would be London. Received some calls in the afternoon and in the evening, too.

He is very cheered by the sound of the orchestra and by the very good orchestra, he says as long as that gives him pleasure he can put up with everything else. In the afternoon I enjoy several hours in Kensington.

In the evening we were to go to see Richard III, but R. feels indisposed and goes to bed at 9 o’clock. I write to friend Gross, telling him how our affairs look here.