Friday, August 13:
Departure; inflated bill, which gives R. the idea that he is a prelate, for he is being geprellt [cheated]. And the Germans, who otherwise left all business dealings to the Jews, would now probably come to be looked upon as cheating landlords, in which connection their servility would also come into its own. He describes Sgambati’s concerto to B[uonamici] as “tears shed but nothing said.” In the train he reads the Causes célèbres, including one about a killer of poor servant girls and his punishment. “How can one imagine,” he exclaims, “that in the present state of things any sort of improvement can be expected, through either the death penalty or anything else?”
He is indignant about the Irish question and the brutal way in which the English are trying to solve it, and he calls England the most wicked of nations.
We like Perugia, also the Albergo Perugia, we decide to enjoy rest and fresh air here. At last! After six days. R. observes that in S. Marcello we were looking for the nut-brown maid! He calls to me on my balcony, “Do you want to see something nice?” He empties a bottle; in reply to my question he says that it is his cognac, he feels that it is bad for his rash. Around 6 o’clock I leave him to visit the Helbigs, who booked our apartment in the hotel. Strange impression of the place, darkly gleaming, powerful! I tell R. about it, also the comical fact that he is famous here as Morlacchi’s successor! We go to bed early, glad to be staying here. Read a little of the dismal history of lovely Pistoia!